[Having a dedicated TT bike is great. Spending $5K for something you race 3-5 times per year, however, is not. If you're the occasional TT and stage racer who counts him/herself among the clip on crowd (or if you travel to a stage race and really prefer not to lug a second bike), this article is for you. Learn how to convert your everyday workhorse into a slippery time trial weapon, with just a few turns of the hex wrench.]
How to Convert your Road Race Rig into a Time Trial Machine
By Beth Mason
Physical Therapist & Retul Fit Professional
As the season progresses, many folks are starting to look at some stage races on the calendar, such as the Tour of Washington County, Blacksburg Cycling Classic and the Tour de Millersburg. Many of us aren’t lucky enough to have dispensable income to levy toward a dedicated time trial rig. What most people end up doing is slapping on some clip on bars, and fiddling with the saddle a little. Then they get ready to endure the pain. Despite popular opinion, time trials aren’t meant to be painful. Okay, you will hurt, yes. Your pain, however, should be coming from your screaming lungs and your burning quads, and not from your aching back or your pleading girly or boy bits.
Below is an example of road to TT conversion I did in Iceland earlier this year.
This is Petur after being fit to his Scott Addict road bike:
This is Petur after modifying his road bike to be an uber fast TT rig:
Some key points to notice on Petur’s position:
- An elbow angle as close to 90° as possible (note the blue arrow in the picture above).
- Knee falling forward of the pedal spindle when the crank arm is parallel to the ground (note the vertical blue line).
So how did we get there?
We
first performed a full Retul fit on Petur’s road rig, and determined
his position of optimum comfort and efficiency. We then swapped out
Petur’s Ritchey bars and 120mm stem for a set of Vision Tri bars and a
110mm stem (both stems at -6° angle). His saddle was moved forward
23mm (his knee to pedal spindle measurement on the road set up was
-5mm, and his measurement on the TT rig was +18mm). Petur’s seatpost
was not elevated, but this can be done (and may need to be done for
some). Most importantly, his saddle was not angled downward.
Common mistakes riders make when doing a TT on a road bike:
- It is very common to see people with the nose of their saddle pointing toward their bottom bracket during a TT. This is done so that they can come down onto their aero bars and not scream in pain from what happens in the nether regions.
- Slap the clip on bars on there and slide the saddle forward some to be able to reach them.
What I recommend (short of hiring me to do the fit for you, which of course I strongly suggest!), in order:
- Ensure your road bike is well fit to start with
- Ensure a level saddle (actually bust out a level and put it on there)
- Slide your saddle forward on the rails 1 to 2 cm (if your saddle is already maximally far forward on your seat post, you might have to switch from a set back seat post to a zero set back). When you are seated on the saddle, and down in the aero position, your knee (actually your tibial tuberosity, which is the bump on your leg bone under your knee cap) should be about 1-3 cm in front of the pedal spindle. This is often measured using a plumb bob.
- If you are working with clip on bars – put them on and see how close you can get your elbows to 90°. You will likely be pretty far off initially. Look at your bars and see what is adjustable. Adjust whatever you can to bring the elbow pads closer to your body. Now see how close you are to 90°.
- Swap out your stem for a shorter stem to get closer to 90° if needed.
Caveats:
- Most well fit road bikes will accommodate this position for the rider. In some, however, the bike may be to short in the top tube to effectively bring the knee forward of the pedal spindle as well as bringing the elbows close to a right angle. If this is the case, your knees will be knocking on your elbows. In this case, something has to give – the saddle further aft or the bars further forward.
- Many people will need to elevate the saddle when they move it forward; how much depends on your seat post angle, your biomechanics, personal preference and comfort. If you don’t raise your saddle, and your knees hurt, then you definitely need to raise it some.
- Do NOT try to work these adjustments the day of your TT. You will fail. You should work on dialing yourself in about a month out, if possible, and ride in that position once or twice weekly prior to your event to make small adjustments as needed.
--
Beth Mason is a physical therapist and a Retul Bike Fit
professional. An alumna of the Mid-Atlantic racing scene, Beth now
resides in New York's Hudson Valley. But I'm sure she'd come back down
to do a bike fit for you if you schedule it for the weekend of a race
she likes. Learn more about her services at BethBikes.com, or contact her by email.
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