As a cyclist, the search for newer and better gear is constant — there's always something else out there. Premes, Picks, Promos will highlight both the next big thing and the sleeper deal.
With summer winding down and new bikes arriving pretty much every week, we've started to see a lot of interest in the shop about upgrading rides.
While most consumers probably don't need to spend a ton of
time getting an exact fit dialed in — the bread-and-butter bikes are hybrids — those who race should absolutely consider all of the variables that go into changing bikes. It's not always a matter of pointing out that 56 cm model and climbing on.
So, in lieu of any real earth-shattering new product information (fall/winter stuff should arrive within the next week), here are five things you need to consider before taking the plunge on a new bike.
1. Take the measurements of your old bike and have them handy when you're shopping. Most often, riders jump to a newer version of an old standby. But in the event of a completely different frame geometry, having some basic numbers will be helpful.
- Seat height (duh) from BB center to top of saddle.
- Nose of saddle to bar (center)
- Nose of saddle to brake hoods
- Drop: the relationship between saddle height and handlebars
2. Going along with those measurements, consider which componentry you'll be running. SRAM hoods are shorter than Shimano hoods. If you're switching groups, you may need to consider a longer or shorter stem to make up for the differences in hood length.
3. These next three things go together a bit, so if you want to read them as 3a, b and c, go for it.
The biggest determining factor in bike fit — and spacer stack height and things like that — is flexibility. The hamstrings are connected to the pelvis, which should tilt forward into riding position. If your hamstrings are tight, you can't tilt your pelvis very far forward. That leads to reaching for the bar with a bowed back, which leads to fatigue, power loss and soreness.
So consider this: If you're not flexible, you shouldn't be running a zero-spacer stack and a flat stem. Trust me, I tried it. It doesn't work. And that leads into No. 4 ... .
4. Let go of your ego. I know you want to be pro and run your stem slammed down, long and low. But what you don't know is that many pros are super-flexible — like, palm-the-floor flexible — so they can run a low position without stressing their bodies.
You, most likely, aren't. Sorry. And if you're on a bike that has a short headtube — a Felt F-Series bike compared to, say, a Tarmac or Madone — you're probably going to have some spacer stack. And a positive-rise stem could well be likely, too.
No, it's not pro, but neither is getting dropped because you're wasting energy by using an inefficient position.
5. Finally, consider having a professional fit done. Little changes can make a big difference, and having a neutral party assist in the setup will be well worth the time and cost (typically between $100 and $200). After all, you'll probably be on this bike for a few seasons. You might as well make them enjoyable ones.
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In addition to being GamJams Tech Editor, Bryan Redemske manages the Trek Bicycle Store of
Omaha, is a professional writer and a Cat 3 racer. He drinks a
lot of
coffee.
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